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The Nuts and Bolts of Quilt Construction
A quick word about the parts of the quilt

All the quilts I make incorporate the following:
  • your choice in colors/prints
  • framing around the blocks 
  • sashing
  • setting squares (if desired)
  • a border
  • quality batting
  • are fully quilted
  • mitered corners
  • a quality binding
Many sites upcharge - often significantly - for these features; if you can even get them there at all.

I use only high quality materials and threads.
 
If you are interested in how things are made. . .

Your quilt will incorporate traditional elements to achieve an old-timey look and feel.

Each one of your t-shirts will be made into a block (sometimes called a square - but they are often more rectangular) for the front of the quilt. The front part is also called the top. All the blocks on your quilt will be the same size - approximately 16" x 14". This size will accomodate most logos, although there are exceptions. To learn more about how shirts are used, click here.

t-shirt quilt componentsAfter the shirts are cut, they are "framed" with one of your fabric choices to complete the block. The blocks are then assembled together in the order you desire - or if you prefer, I can arrange them in a pattern.

Blocks are joined by means of a sashing - strips of fabric that run the length and width of the quilt between the blocks. The second of your fabric choices is used for this.

Setting squares (cornerstones) are added at the intersection of each block; and a border is added to complete the top.

After the top is made, the quilt is assembled into a quilt "sandwich." This consists of the three layers that make up the quilt: the top, the batting, and the backing. t-shirt quilt layers - the "sandwich"

The batting is the middle layer and gives the quilt its thickness and warmth. Most batting is either cotton or polyster, or a combination of the two. I use Hobbs Heirloom Premium Batting - an 80/20 Cotton to Polyester mix. It has a relatively low loft, is very warm, and holds its form well. It also will not "pill" -  100% polyester batting is prone to fibers poking through the quilt and making hard to remove little balls.

The backing is either a print or a solid color that matches or complements the material used in the construction of the top. This is the third of your selections of fabric.

The three layers are then stitched together: this is the actual "quilting" process. The stitching can be decorative, free-form, or follow an established pattern. I use a traditional pattern called "Hanging Diamonds," which is attractive and provides good quilting coverage without becoming the focus of the quilt. The pattern should not detract from or overshadow the t-shirt blocks.
t-shirt quilt - Hanging Diamonds quilting pattern
After quilting, a binding is put around the outside edge, essentially sealing the layers. There are other ways of finishing the edges of a quilt, but a binding is durable and frames the quilt. The binding is made from one of the fabrics used in making the quilt, so it matches the colors of the quilt exactly. The corners are mitered, which improves the look of the quilt versus squared corners.
t-shirt quilt - Mitered Corners
 
After construction, I wet and lightly dry
t-shirt quilt puckered look your quilt to give it an old-fashioned, slightly "puckered" antique look. The puckering is due to the batting drawing up slightly - although the degree to which it occurs is not always consistent, even with the same brand. The backing and the t-shirts (depending on how many times the shirts  have previously been washed) can affect this as well - although to a much smaller degree. The puckering shows off the quilting pattern and adds to the "traditional" look (Click picture to enlarge).

If you really don't care for the puckered look, let me know and I will pre-wash the batting to shrink it before using. That usually prevents this from happening, but I cannot guarantee that it will.

CARING FOR YOUR QUILT

Each quilt is well-constructed and sturdy. It is recommended to spot clean with a gentle detergent when possible. Frequent washing and drying can put a lot of stress on the stitching, damage the batting, or eventually cause fading - just as it does on clothing. Clothes wear out when you wash them often, a quilt will too.

Hand washing or manually agitating in the washer tub with cold water and using a low heat dryer setting until the quilt is "almost-but-not-quite" dry will maintain it for many, many years. Much of the issue is with the agitation in the washer and using a high heat setting on the dryer.

IMPORTANT: Special care needs to be given to quilts with newer Red, Dark Green or Purple shirts as these have a tendency to bleed; even if they have been washed a few times.  This can be a problem especially if the quilt also contains lighter shirts. At the very least use a color-catching cloth if you wash it; and dry-clean if you are worried about it at all. Placing these shirts away from light colored shirts and lighter materials can also help minimize this problem.


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